2012년 5월 9일 수요일

The first laminating on the deck

We laminated 'the first go' from stern, using 400 EDB instead of 300 EDB used inside the hull. There will be another layer of EDB 200 on the bridge deck bulkhead on the very bottom of the layers.

Laminating usually takes longer than I expected. When dryfitting, mark the centre line with china something(I don't remember which is like crayon) or masking tape. We have to make darts on few corners of EDB otherwise it folds and makes wrinkles.

We used basically two sheets of EDB up to this dotted line.

This is the lap between the EDB coming up from the hull outside and EDB laminating today. The cross section of this and the lap between two EDB laminating today has 3 laps, so it has to be sanded down one more time of the thickness of a layer.

Looking closer, this horizontal line is the real edge of the deck supposed to be and the outer space let the vacume tape on it and will be cut off after vacuming.

a nice valley of lap


Looking from stern

Thank you guys for giving me a good memory. All the best wishes for thee!!

Draw the centre line one last time. It will be semi-permanent until painting. It can be looked through laminating.

From bow

A jig for hatch looks pretty small.

One more shot of the prow tube kits looked from in front of it. The angle from back and forward of the foam twisted so it is not really easy to make it properly. Chris did anyway.

Green vacume bag for high temperature. It is a bit thicker and more elastic but we didn't use this after all.

That diagonal line there is meant to be fit rudder plate inside. I actually stepped on the flange, I can't see through the masking tape though. It could have been leakage but not really fortunately. The reason that we put masking tape on that is not to let the glue down to bare flange so the vac tape can't stick on it, or we can make it bigger.

Put some slurry to fill invisibly porous space. Mind the lap not to be flooded.


Set a vacume gauge.

Cut EDB exactly along the outline of the lap.

Put the materials on. Always make them bigger. It doesn't really matter if it is a bit bigger.


Getting there. Those corners there are tricky parts and try not to cut them short because if it is short and any spanning is not good. Make them fold rather than spanning.

50mm wide carbon uni is going to go on to that diagonal line as well as the section below the hatch.

A piece of wood for drawing centre line

I put this vacume tape for vacuming fore-aft floor but this will be done next week. Dryfitting, put some masking tape to make sure to see the out line of the laminate and put vac tape.

Close to finish preparing. Roll a piece of green bleeder(I don't remember the name), squash it into the hose and put some masking tape around the hose to make sure it can't suck inside the hose.

Ready

Put the vac tape around the joint, push the hose on it tightly. This picture above is not a good example though.

Still closed.

Start being seen those spots

The growth of this spot pursuant to time goes

We finally shut the cabin with shutter plank, pushing the planks with masking tape and using some pieces of wood with a temporary bridge over the cabin top like that.

There was a hole so we blocked it with vac tape.

shutter plank

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