We dryfit the deck and I carried on the prow tube.
It was Lance I think he did this little bit last wednesday.
Turned over.
View from bow starboard
Andrew bored holes on each side to get the stanchion through
It doesn't seem on this picture but Lance ground top of the girder for the little plate on outboard on the deck. The centre case hole on the deck has to go back by 10 mm.
The forward face of transom has to be against the aft face of flange, but they aren't. Deck has to be back as well as the stanchion hole.
It looks not too bad, but we need another 10 mm anyway.
This is what I took a shot from just inside hatch looking down to the floor to see if the bulkhead is on it. It sat just on the edge of the floor but it will come back a bit and is going to look better.
To make the hole bigger by 10 mm forward, we had to grind the boombang plate out. Andrew used a jigsaw.
She fit into the hull at last. Check any lumps or obstacles, get rid of them. It looks like the deck couldn't go down because of the edge of the transom each side. Cut it anyway.
We can see the light through the prowtube.
This is cross sectional sketch to think about how we cut the edge of the deck and how we bevel. We first line up the centre line fore and aft, dryfit, draw lines on the edge on each frame. Take the deck off, take the measurement from the edge line to the line of the topside inside, add 1mm and mark it. Put the deck on, trasfer the measurement on the deck on each frame, use batten, draw a fair line, cut it.
One nice fair line
Chris demonstrated cutting the deck at first. Give the jig saw certain bevel angle and cut the deck off. Make sure to make the angle plumberer as it goes to bow.
He did like this.
Chris said that we will use this offcut to make hatch somehow.
A half hole for the stanchion.
It fits well now. There was a bit of gap portside but that is alright. We might use adhesive powder for the joint.
Lance is looking at the gap. It was a bit bigger than I supposed.
This gap will be filled with glue.
Ogi and Lance are sanding off the bottom of the bulkhead.
This corner is a little bit high. We should have thought about the coving underneath the deck edge. Cut it out anyway.
Looking good.
It was Lance I think he did this little bit last wednesday.
Turned over.
View from bow starboard
Andrew bored holes on each side to get the stanchion through
It doesn't seem on this picture but Lance ground top of the girder for the little plate on outboard on the deck. The centre case hole on the deck has to go back by 10 mm.
The forward face of transom has to be against the aft face of flange, but they aren't. Deck has to be back as well as the stanchion hole.
It looks not too bad, but we need another 10 mm anyway.
This is what I took a shot from just inside hatch looking down to the floor to see if the bulkhead is on it. It sat just on the edge of the floor but it will come back a bit and is going to look better.
To make the hole bigger by 10 mm forward, we had to grind the boombang plate out. Andrew used a jigsaw.
She fit into the hull at last. Check any lumps or obstacles, get rid of them. It looks like the deck couldn't go down because of the edge of the transom each side. Cut it anyway.
We can see the light through the prowtube.
This is cross sectional sketch to think about how we cut the edge of the deck and how we bevel. We first line up the centre line fore and aft, dryfit, draw lines on the edge on each frame. Take the deck off, take the measurement from the edge line to the line of the topside inside, add 1mm and mark it. Put the deck on, trasfer the measurement on the deck on each frame, use batten, draw a fair line, cut it.
One nice fair line
Chris demonstrated cutting the deck at first. Give the jig saw certain bevel angle and cut the deck off. Make sure to make the angle plumberer as it goes to bow.
He did like this.
Chris said that we will use this offcut to make hatch somehow.
A half hole for the stanchion.
It fits well now. There was a bit of gap portside but that is alright. We might use adhesive powder for the joint.
Lance is looking at the gap. It was a bit bigger than I supposed.
This gap will be filled with glue.
Ogi and Lance are sanding off the bottom of the bulkhead.
This corner is a little bit high. We should have thought about the coving underneath the deck edge. Cut it out anyway.
Looking good.
The topside edge is a bit higher than the sheer line which is same to the height of frames. We probably are going to make a jig to adjust the height. If it is a bit lower, use a lofting nail inside. We have to make sure to keep the camber angle with proper sheer height. I couldn't take photos of my prowtube job. I cut two pieces for forward face of bulkhead going around the tube, three pieces to laminate aft face of nosecone one of which went underneath of the tube. Be aware of the peel ply not going under the fibreglass. Is there any way to do this tube before it becomes hard to be done.
gloss
matt
fetch
athwartships
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