Sealing the inside of the hull, filling the gaps and holes, we glue the topside up today. We are going to cove, round and laminate tomorrow.
The face of the nose cone has to be lined up on the frame 0(F.P), so we had to properly cut the topsides off. Using a straight edge, we drew lines on them. Bandsaw is quite strong to cut the nose cone, so we used handsaw instead.
Sanding with pnenumatic tools looks pretty deep where the end point of chine. The thickness was less than 6mm and the planking thickness is 8mm of western red cedar.
Pushing putty knife quite hard, Chris is filling the holes.
And everybody does.
Andrew is finishing the holes in the centre of the hull.
Estimating 15mm foam for the deck, we drew through the pattern on the MDF temporarily. We have to consider economic estimation, the usage of offcuts as well.
After filling, we sealed the hull. Mixing Everdure part A and part B in 1 by 1. The former is primer and sealer and the later one is activator. Chris said that it is better to seal after filling and it was indeed. We can spread the lumps of filler occasionally and actually the filler didn't quite go into the sealer.
The color of planking got harder than before.
Lance is making the male mould of the centre case. Three sheets of MDF were screwed up into one, edge on its side was made round by using router. It will laminated by four layers of EDB, but prior to doing that we have to cover plastic on it and make sure the surface has to be dust free.
That's the plastic being going to be covered. 6 bucks a roll. The point is getting rid of any air bubble between plastic and MDF. We can use reg or something dry and soft.
Making a piece of wood goes onto the frame 3 for holding the deck up.
We used the same method last week, but the difference one was this tape on each side of glueing surface.
Nailed each side of topside not to let it go off the hull. Don't spread the glue on the foam as less as possible.
saturate
orientation(45,45 or 0,90)
Glass on the girder will be 3 layers. I saw the T making for girder at the Mackay boats, they make two 'ㄱ' on each side of girder which I reckon it has more faying surface instead of using 'ㅡ' on the girder.
Use 1 of 400 is better than 1 of 200. The strength of getting fibre together comes out resin so we don't have to use 2 layers.
woven
roving
binder
double bias
Binder melts a bit when it meets polyester resin.
CUD will put on the floor which goes on to the foam and below to EDB.
The face of the nose cone has to be lined up on the frame 0(F.P), so we had to properly cut the topsides off. Using a straight edge, we drew lines on them. Bandsaw is quite strong to cut the nose cone, so we used handsaw instead.
Sanding with pnenumatic tools looks pretty deep where the end point of chine. The thickness was less than 6mm and the planking thickness is 8mm of western red cedar.
This is powder(410) for fairing filler which can be meant as filler which has a different color. It was mixed with 407 and the ratio of them was 150:350 respectively. The reasone for mixing them up is that if use only this one, the glue wouldn't be viscous enough(What I heard is like this but not too sure...)
Pushing putty knife quite hard, Chris is filling the holes.
And everybody does.
Andrew is finishing the holes in the centre of the hull.
Estimating 15mm foam for the deck, we drew through the pattern on the MDF temporarily. We have to consider economic estimation, the usage of offcuts as well.
After filling, we sealed the hull. Mixing Everdure part A and part B in 1 by 1. The former is primer and sealer and the later one is activator. Chris said that it is better to seal after filling and it was indeed. We can spread the lumps of filler occasionally and actually the filler didn't quite go into the sealer.
Chris is demonstrating how to sealing.
The color of planking got harder than before.
Lance is making the male mould of the centre case. Three sheets of MDF were screwed up into one, edge on its side was made round by using router. It will laminated by four layers of EDB, but prior to doing that we have to cover plastic on it and make sure the surface has to be dust free.
That's the plastic being going to be covered. 6 bucks a roll. The point is getting rid of any air bubble between plastic and MDF. We can use reg or something dry and soft.
Making a piece of wood goes onto the frame 3 for holding the deck up.
which looks like this
We used the same method last week, but the difference one was this tape on each side of glueing surface.
Scraping excess glue and we are goint to cove on it.
Nailed each side of topside not to let it go off the hull. Don't spread the glue on the foam as less as possible.
saturate
orientation(45,45 or 0,90)
Glass on the girder will be 3 layers. I saw the T making for girder at the Mackay boats, they make two 'ㄱ' on each side of girder which I reckon it has more faying surface instead of using 'ㅡ' on the girder.
Use 1 of 400 is better than 1 of 200. The strength of getting fibre together comes out resin so we don't have to use 2 layers.
woven
roving
binder
double bias
Binder melts a bit when it meets polyester resin.
CUD will put on the floor which goes on to the foam and below to EDB.
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