We sanded the hull all the morning. One team transferred the girder lofting onto foam, lofted centre case and made its male mould which was made of 3 sheets of MDF one of which sanded down a bit(18mm->14mm)
Some pieces of wood and paper tape on them used to level the plankings was stuck pretty tightly but we used chisel, halve it, halve it and on and it's done. We could have used plastic on it but this method was not bad. We need to give an attention on taking them off though.
It is unefficient to use sand paper by hand because of heaps of excess glue so we use pneumatic sanding tool. That one looking vietnam rice paper is sand paper(40 grid) with a cover on sticky side. Pill the cover off and put it on the rubber of the tool. The silver plate is an on/off switch and there are a control knob down below this. It's not good to sand by the edge of it because the rubber goes off and it doesn't sand the surface flat which has to be.
It roughly takes two sheets of sand paper for two sections of frames on the very aft side of the hull. We don't need to worry about the gap in the very end of bow and laminating on it because we can do that at any time. Upforward side has to be sanded by hand or a smaller sanding tool.
We were told about this herb(I don't know the name.) before move on to sanding. The middle one is pressure gauge, lube oil on the left, open/close knob below, water(from atmosphere) trap on the right side. The left female connector is bigger than the right one and is with lube oil and the other one is dry air female connectore. Chris said that the size of them should have been opposite because the dry air hose has to be clean but sometimes we obviously can put it in the oil one so that can be contaminated. If the air keep blowing out of the tool all of a sudden, flip the hose and that's all. We shouln't put our hands over the hole to stop blowing the air which can be critical if it comes into our body. When we are sanding, we have to be aware of sand dust because of natural mineral which is arsenic in the timber as well as asbestos which are serious carcinogen(thanks Tristan). I heard that cedar that we use now has especially more of them.
Estimating how much we need fibre glass, we measure the width of the E-glass, transferred on to a flextible planking. Foam was good. Mind the overlap part which is minimum 40mm, maximum 50mm and tape on it.
taking the lofting nail off
Some pieces of wood and paper tape on them used to level the plankings was stuck pretty tightly but we used chisel, halve it, halve it and on and it's done. We could have used plastic on it but this method was not bad. We need to give an attention on taking them off though.
It is unefficient to use sand paper by hand because of heaps of excess glue so we use pneumatic sanding tool. That one looking vietnam rice paper is sand paper(40 grid) with a cover on sticky side. Pill the cover off and put it on the rubber of the tool. The silver plate is an on/off switch and there are a control knob down below this. It's not good to sand by the edge of it because the rubber goes off and it doesn't sand the surface flat which has to be.
completed sanding
It roughly takes two sheets of sand paper for two sections of frames on the very aft side of the hull. We don't need to worry about the gap in the very end of bow and laminating on it because we can do that at any time. Upforward side has to be sanded by hand or a smaller sanding tool.
We were told about this herb(I don't know the name.) before move on to sanding. The middle one is pressure gauge, lube oil on the left, open/close knob below, water(from atmosphere) trap on the right side. The left female connector is bigger than the right one and is with lube oil and the other one is dry air female connectore. Chris said that the size of them should have been opposite because the dry air hose has to be clean but sometimes we obviously can put it in the oil one so that can be contaminated. If the air keep blowing out of the tool all of a sudden, flip the hose and that's all. We shouln't put our hands over the hole to stop blowing the air which can be critical if it comes into our body. When we are sanding, we have to be aware of sand dust because of natural mineral which is arsenic in the timber as well as asbestos which are serious carcinogen(thanks Tristan). I heard that cedar that we use now has especially more of them.
Transferring girder lofting on to foam
Estimating how much we need fibre glass, we measure the width of the E-glass, transferred on to a flextible planking. Foam was good. Mind the overlap part which is minimum 40mm, maximum 50mm and tape on it.
a big sanding tool
a small dude
dryfitting topsides
cut them off a bit, put the nose cone on it
The gap between them was quite big. Use spiling gauge, cut it, fit them.
with nosecone on the forward side, it looks like a boat.
under side cockpit sole
inside planking
bulb(lead)
square corner
packer
give radius
good, yourself?
speed sander
white button - suction on
red button - conveyor belt on
black knob - sandpaper belt on
bulkhead(frame 7, frame 11, 604mm from F.P-collision bulkhead)
floor(2 between collision bulkhead and frame 7, one each between frame 7 and frame 11, frame 11 and transom)
centre case - four layers of fibre glass
we leave it 100mm up on cockpit sole, down under canoe body and trim it after fitting in. I don't remember how Mackay boats made them. I should have taken some photos....
Mast and one edge of centre case has to have some space between them because when the centre case lifted up, it shouldn't touch any fitting on the mast.
Tip point of scarphing was likely to go under below the hull planking. It's an idea to get the point on to the frame which is solid.
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