We carried on planking.
The hull of this boat doesn't have an inflection point, so if there is we have to adjust it. Tapu looks like scraping excess glue off. We completed chines but one for portside has justified. The strips have to be laid as even as possible.
When after drawing a line underneath between two strips, use this straight edge for a clear line on.
We adjusted deck frame 7, because of the thickness of the bulkhead, 15mm. Bore a hole on some small peaces of MDF to make the gap(bulkhead) between frame 7 and the cabin hatch frame. The holes have to have enough space to control two frames on proper position.
There is a crack made by one of our classmates but Chris said it is not really hard thing to adjust it. After planking, cut it out using router and put the other plankings. It will even be a good chance to fix the boat. It is hard to figure out the inflection point on frame 3 but there is, which has to be adjusted. When walking inside frames, we have to be aware of the lofting nails. They can hurt.
Lance made a jig for nose cone, getting the measurement on AutoCAD WS. The nose cone is slightly wider on the top of it than the bottom so the jig has a tiny bevel on those semicircles. It is going to be made with high density foam which is cut into several strips with filler. In order to minimise the amount of the filler, make them trapezoid.
We used paper tape to grab the strips not to let them go uneven and I thought that if I can use a cylinder on to them and tape around them together.
so far, so good.
looking good joints
Grab two strips on the chine where it was said to be justified.
It is a temporary jig for making the scarph of planking in width direction. We had to make sure that the timber or whatever not to go beyond the centre of the disk or end up feed the material into the way the disk goes.
frame 0 which was kind of difficult to level it, because it is somewhat narrow.
It is set. To make the foam strips of nosecone trapezoid decline the table.
heaps
the concept of the nosecone jig
The hull of this boat doesn't have an inflection point, so if there is we have to adjust it. Tapu looks like scraping excess glue off. We completed chines but one for portside has justified. The strips have to be laid as even as possible.
When after drawing a line underneath between two strips, use this straight edge for a clear line on.
We adjusted deck frame 7, because of the thickness of the bulkhead, 15mm. Bore a hole on some small peaces of MDF to make the gap(bulkhead) between frame 7 and the cabin hatch frame. The holes have to have enough space to control two frames on proper position.
befor adjustment
There is a crack made by one of our classmates but Chris said it is not really hard thing to adjust it. After planking, cut it out using router and put the other plankings. It will even be a good chance to fix the boat. It is hard to figure out the inflection point on frame 3 but there is, which has to be adjusted. When walking inside frames, we have to be aware of the lofting nails. They can hurt.
Lance made a jig for nose cone, getting the measurement on AutoCAD WS. The nose cone is slightly wider on the top of it than the bottom so the jig has a tiny bevel on those semicircles. It is going to be made with high density foam which is cut into several strips with filler. In order to minimise the amount of the filler, make them trapezoid.
We used paper tape to grab the strips not to let them go uneven and I thought that if I can use a cylinder on to them and tape around them together.
so far, so good.
looking good joints
Grab two strips on the chine where it was said to be justified.
dryfitting?
It is a temporary jig for making the scarph of planking in width direction. We had to make sure that the timber or whatever not to go beyond the centre of the disk or end up feed the material into the way the disk goes.
frame 0 which was kind of difficult to level it, because it is somewhat narrow.
It is set. To make the foam strips of nosecone trapezoid decline the table.
heaps
the concept of the nosecone jig
scarphing, ratio 1:7(roughly)
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