Chris point out bad things from the work that we did yestersay in this morning. Every boatbuilder or tutor has different experiences or views of education and the method of usind tools or machines. Two of our classmates started doing this course slightly lately like 1 week or 2 weeks behind us doing from the first day, so they have to catch up. The method of glueing the part of the sides between them and us was different because they did it yesterday when matthew taught us. Anyway, woods need air when glueing them, which means they have to breath otherwise the glue is goint to be sticky or wet until they have enough air.
- wedge
- ramp
- inclined plane
- thread
- spiral down
- mercury
- knob(not a button)
- delftship(free download for modeling yacht - cool~)
http://www.delftship.net/
- saw horse
- flat -> gauged -> squared -> D4S
- that's what I'm gonna go through.
- samson post
We finished chiselling and we did some computer things related to preparing our portfolio. I heard that google take over motorola today.
2011년 8월 23일 화요일
15082011(chiselling)
We made handles by using bench saw on the 2nd floor on the last Wednesday. That was the only practical job that we have done. In the morning class, we learned the mechanical system inside the thicknesser, because someone adjusted the height of the rollers inside it. They have to be the same height of the bottom surface.
A student who was contaminated by epoxy two weeks ago popped by in the class for doing something, and Chris told us about human mechanism showing pre-sign by our immune system when someone is contaminated of something and he told that skin is our biggest organ, which sounds like true(it is true and the second one is a liver weighing 1.5kg while the former one is 3kg).
- do not measure at the end of timbers or planks especially after using thicknesser, because sometimes they are stepped.
- flat band sander
- dust is explosive, definetely saw dust as well.
- do not feed in the planks twice into the thicknesser, unless it is adjusted twice.
- microswitch on the flat band sander to measuer the exact thickness of woods
- emergency stop button
- vacuum system with the rubber conveyor belt on the flat band sander helps thinner timbers make flat when we feed them in as well as it extracts the saw dust from them.
- chiselling
The biggest part of what I experienced today was the afternoon class. We learned how to use chisels. It has two surfaces one of which is flat and another one has a steep angle. The former helps the chisel go straightly down to the surface, the latter tends to push against the materials like woods we use.
- the slower I chisel, the better result I will get.
Our tutor was matthew in the afternoon. He is way younger than the other tutors.
A student who was contaminated by epoxy two weeks ago popped by in the class for doing something, and Chris told us about human mechanism showing pre-sign by our immune system when someone is contaminated of something and he told that skin is our biggest organ, which sounds like true(it is true and the second one is a liver weighing 1.5kg while the former one is 3kg).
- do not measure at the end of timbers or planks especially after using thicknesser, because sometimes they are stepped.
- flat band sander
- dust is explosive, definetely saw dust as well.
- do not feed in the planks twice into the thicknesser, unless it is adjusted twice.
- microswitch on the flat band sander to measuer the exact thickness of woods
- emergency stop button
- vacuum system with the rubber conveyor belt on the flat band sander helps thinner timbers make flat when we feed them in as well as it extracts the saw dust from them.
- chiselling
The biggest part of what I experienced today was the afternoon class. We learned how to use chisels. It has two surfaces one of which is flat and another one has a steep angle. The former helps the chisel go straightly down to the surface, the latter tends to push against the materials like woods we use.
- the slower I chisel, the better result I will get.
Our tutor was matthew in the afternoon. He is way younger than the other tutors.
10082011
scarphs - An overlapping joint used to couple two timbers end-to-end without increasing their dimensions. Types include simple butt (flat) scarphs and more complicated hooked and keyed scarphs.
[Source: "Glossary." Wisconsin's Great Lakes Shipwrecks (http://www.wisconsinshipwrecks.org/)]
pine
sequoia
New Zealand grows pine and export to US, whereas US import them and grows sequoia, which is pretty similar to us.
American cherry(Prunus serotina)
walnut(a bit darker than the others)
epoxy
outboard(one or more motors being affixed to the outside of the transom)
WEST systems(epoxy company)
deafness(wear ear muffs)
incidence
shockwave
vinyl
buttock 100(100mm from the buttock line)
waterline negative 100(100mm under the waterline)
heel & trim
sniff
resin
hardner
get rough sawn
marking gauge(a special tool for marking. usually for measure the centre line)
sail fuller
temptation
solid green(green light)
blinking green
set the fence
gantry
I forgot most of the things that I learned last friday even what we have done. I need to focus on reviewing everyday seriously.
[Source: "Glossary." Wisconsin's Great Lakes Shipwrecks (http://www.wisconsinshipwrecks.org/)]
pine
sequoia
New Zealand grows pine and export to US, whereas US import them and grows sequoia, which is pretty similar to us.
American cherry(Prunus serotina)
walnut(a bit darker than the others)
epoxy
outboard(one or more motors being affixed to the outside of the transom)
WEST systems(epoxy company)
deafness(wear ear muffs)
incidence
shockwave
vinyl
buttock 100(100mm from the buttock line)
waterline negative 100(100mm under the waterline)
heel & trim
sniff
resin
hardner
get rough sawn
marking gauge(a special tool for marking. usually for measure the centre line)
sail fuller
temptation
solid green(green light)
blinking green
set the fence
gantry
I forgot most of the things that I learned last friday even what we have done. I need to focus on reviewing everyday seriously.
09082011(instruction about table saw & grinder & oil stone by Christopher)
Lance brought a special plane that make drip groove(weather groove), which is given by his grandfather. He said his grandfather was also a boat builder. Christopher brifly explained to us about it. The surface of joint(glueing area; faying surface) increases by making rebate whereas butt joint tends to slip or split up. We did not do any practicing today. The class tomorrow is going to be with laptop.
Terms
- skew
- shaving
- orbital sander(sanding in a direction of '8')
- grind & hone(first grind by grinder to make back surface of blades flat then hone by oil stone)
- oil stone
- water stone
- rip & dock
- arkansaw
- dove tale chissels(cross section looks like trapezoid)
- burr(looks like beard made after using spindle moulder in right angle grain)
- scriber(avoid making top chips, which is attached on a spindle moulder blade)
- winding & warping
- stem(bow)
- deadwood(keel of wooden boat)
- grain direction icon( <-> )
- cross nulled(usually on a handle which can be control by thumb and fingers)
- getting certain degree by drawing R575 circle(after drawing that circle, draw another line from the arc of the bottom line to the arc above in a length of 10mm, which can make 10 degree. By then, same method can be done, 1mm by 1 degree)
- Pythagoras theorem(a squared plus b squared equal c squared)
- right angle triangle(a triangle having one right angle)
- carving
- tenon & mortice
- forcener
- drill press
- bath(for make oil stone suck the oil)
- fine & coarse
- oil stone soak oil that is not kind of lube oil(do not put it into wooden clamps, otherwise it will contaminate them)
- soak it up
- standard operating proceduer(SOP)
1. explain how to start up and shut down
2. demonstrate how to use
3. practice under control
4. capable of doing with limited inspection
5. without supervision
- woodchopper
- polish
- hollow(usually the center of oilstone tend to be hollow because that part is more used then the ends)
- grit(I thought this was used for shop primer)-to make
- dummy run(practicing)
- bridge guard(to protect fingers as well as blades)
- anti-kickback(like a teeth that does not allow planks to be back)
- solid
- tungsten(brittle, ususally used for cutting edge as sawteeth)
- expansion(usually a plate or stick made by iron of steel make intentional space to avoid expanding when it gets heating)
- to stop cracking(if something like glass or a plate made of iron keep cracking, it can be stopped by making a hole at the end of cracks)
- gullet(a certain hollow between sawteeth)
- feed in & tale out(could you tale it out, please?)
Terms
- skew
- shaving
- orbital sander(sanding in a direction of '8')
- grind & hone(first grind by grinder to make back surface of blades flat then hone by oil stone)
- oil stone
- water stone
- rip & dock
- arkansaw
- dove tale chissels(cross section looks like trapezoid)
- burr(looks like beard made after using spindle moulder in right angle grain)
- scriber(avoid making top chips, which is attached on a spindle moulder blade)
- winding & warping
- stem(bow)
- deadwood(keel of wooden boat)
- grain direction icon( <-> )
- cross nulled(usually on a handle which can be control by thumb and fingers)
- getting certain degree by drawing R575 circle(after drawing that circle, draw another line from the arc of the bottom line to the arc above in a length of 10mm, which can make 10 degree. By then, same method can be done, 1mm by 1 degree)
- Pythagoras theorem(a squared plus b squared equal c squared)
- right angle triangle(a triangle having one right angle)
- carving
- tenon & mortice
- forcener
- drill press
- bath(for make oil stone suck the oil)
- fine & coarse
- oil stone soak oil that is not kind of lube oil(do not put it into wooden clamps, otherwise it will contaminate them)
- soak it up
- standard operating proceduer(SOP)
1. explain how to start up and shut down
2. demonstrate how to use
3. practice under control
4. capable of doing with limited inspection
5. without supervision
- woodchopper
- polish
- hollow(usually the center of oilstone tend to be hollow because that part is more used then the ends)
- grit(I thought this was used for shop primer)-to make
- dummy run(practicing)
- bridge guard(to protect fingers as well as blades)
- anti-kickback(like a teeth that does not allow planks to be back)
- solid
- tungsten(brittle, ususally used for cutting edge as sawteeth)
- expansion(usually a plate or stick made by iron of steel make intentional space to avoid expanding when it gets heating)
- to stop cracking(if something like glass or a plate made of iron keep cracking, it can be stopped by making a hole at the end of cracks)
- gullet(a certain hollow between sawteeth)
- feed in & tale out(could you tale it out, please?)
08082011
Our plan today was to get exact size of the ends by using band saw because there were quite enough margins on our planks of the ends. Prior to machining, we drew centre line and lines for each side, 140mm from the centre line. We drew another two lines for bottome of the end and a parallel line 10mm above the bottom line for makin rebate. On top of the end, we drew R20 line on both sides(right side and left side). To make both ends identically, we nailed two spots where the hole and the rebates are going to be made, which is okay to be made a nail hole. Using band saw downstairs, we found the surface of planks burning due to the blunt blade. We also learned how to sharpen the blade of the hand plane(bench plane) and how to use it properly. First use grinder with water, second use oilstone with thin(diluted) oil, make sure adjust the gap of tooth of the blade in about 2mm and so on.
There are differences between the big band saw down staris which has wider and thicker blade than another small one upstairs. Wider blade can keep the way the plank goes whereas narrow one make the surface curve easier.
Tips
- make sure leave lines that have been already drawn for being able to check when doing another job like sanding, planing, etc
- mind the grain direction before using certain machines such as spindle molder, buzzer, etc.
We cut the top to make radius(R20) by sanding disk which is quite dangerous until it stops(it takes long time to stop perfectly), and we take the nails away in order to put the planks into the sanding machine which is really big and can be adjust the thickness electronically as well as mechanically.
Terms
- faying surface(glueing area)
- AS/NZS 2271(can be used in boat buliding but not recommendable) grade 'A' face, 'C' back
- AS/NZS 2272(for boatbuilding) AA
- BS 1088(for boatbuilding) AA
- epoxy
- vinylester resin
- polyester resin
a nice site below to find the information about plywoods
http://www.gunnersens.com.au/products/building-products/plywood.html
Finally, we choose a plywood, which was AS/NZS 2271, for bottoms and cut it longitudinally by table saw and transversely by spider saw. That was all for today.
There are differences between the big band saw down staris which has wider and thicker blade than another small one upstairs. Wider blade can keep the way the plank goes whereas narrow one make the surface curve easier.
Tips
- make sure leave lines that have been already drawn for being able to check when doing another job like sanding, planing, etc
- mind the grain direction before using certain machines such as spindle molder, buzzer, etc.
We cut the top to make radius(R20) by sanding disk which is quite dangerous until it stops(it takes long time to stop perfectly), and we take the nails away in order to put the planks into the sanding machine which is really big and can be adjust the thickness electronically as well as mechanically.
Terms
- faying surface(glueing area)
- AS/NZS 2271(can be used in boat buliding but not recommendable) grade 'A' face, 'C' back
- AS/NZS 2272(for boatbuilding) AA
- BS 1088(for boatbuilding) AA
- epoxy
- vinylester resin
- polyester resin
a nice site below to find the information about plywoods
http://www.gunnersens.com.au/products/building-products/plywood.html
Finally, we choose a plywood, which was AS/NZS 2271, for bottoms and cut it longitudinally by table saw and transversely by spider saw. That was all for today.
03082011
Yesterday we prepared three pieces of plank by using spider saw. One for two sides which will be ripped deeply, two for two ends which will be cut diagonally into two and be glued two of them for each end. We need two more pieces of plank for the handle and the bottom of the tool box. It is high time I bought hand tools~ A seller came to class and show us the tools we need that be put into our future tool box. Today the class was started instructing how to use bandsaw because we needed to cut the ends diagonally into two. Thg thing is our eyes always have to looking at our fingers and do not look around ever never. That's all. Our tutor Christopher says comparative word like 'quickerer', 'biggerer', which is good to understand. We used thicknesser to make the planks flat and used buzzer to make the side surface of planks flat.
Planks are usually slightly twisted or bended, so they should be flattened by using machines. The chance of planks bending opposite the grain is likely. The shape, length, bending direction of blade of thicknesser represents how the scob is curl, long.
Here are some tips.
- if epoxy contaminates skin, it can be cleaned by salten water or vinegar
- make sure you get rid of glue before sanding so that the sanding machine can be protected
After we cut the planks for ends into two, we used glue to attach each of two. We used 4 nails for one end to make them firmly attached. First put one piece of the plank on a table, nail down on the table beside the plank touched(use two nails). Secondly, glue the side of the other plank, attach each side and rub them. Lastly, nail down shallowly(use another two of them) with slightly leaning on the table touched on the other side of the other plank and erect the inclined nails and drive the nails deeply again.
Planks are usually slightly twisted or bended, so they should be flattened by using machines. The chance of planks bending opposite the grain is likely. The shape, length, bending direction of blade of thicknesser represents how the scob is curl, long.
Here are some tips.
- if epoxy contaminates skin, it can be cleaned by salten water or vinegar
- make sure you get rid of glue before sanding so that the sanding machine can be protected
After we cut the planks for ends into two, we used glue to attach each of two. We used 4 nails for one end to make them firmly attached. First put one piece of the plank on a table, nail down on the table beside the plank touched(use two nails). Secondly, glue the side of the other plank, attach each side and rub them. Lastly, nail down shallowly(use another two of them) with slightly leaning on the table touched on the other side of the other plank and erect the inclined nails and drive the nails deeply again.
02082011
As we were handed a drawing yesterday about a tool box yesterday, we kept talking about the tool box. Christopher Lovegrove, who has shaggy beard with low tone voice, was a tutor today until the next day. He told us about features of timbers such as brittle(more likely to crash than to bend), end grain, sanded, mill, planks, westerned red cedar, slow growing, specific gravity weight(S.G.), the metric system, flat sawn, quarter sawn. Also three different type of drawing was told, which is profile(buttock line), bodyplan(station line), half breadth(water line), also diagonal line, table of offsets as well.
I should have brought a camera with me...because of many machines that cannot be explained in several words. Anyhow, there are quite a lot of machines like band saw, drop saw, circular saw, buzzer(surface planer), spider saw, thicknesser, router, spindle sander, a couple of grinders, etc in the building.
The thing that annoys me about the class is the terms some of which I cannot remember at the moment but probably have heard in Korean before. RS(rough sawn), D1S(Dressed 1 side), D2S, D3S, D4S. In the morning, prior to choose the best timber we caculated how many planks are going to be needed, which is called making cutting list. Items are arranged in rows and length, weight, thickness are arranged in colomns respectively.
He told us hand tools with demonstrating and explaining, such as combination square, sliding bevel(bevel square) for copying and pasting a certain angle, back saw, folding rules, chisels, spokeshare, electric saber saw, rasps, files, oilstone, clamps, c-clamps.
And he gave some tips.
- when using spider saw, make sure do not let the gap between timber and the shelf of it by pushing the timber down.
- when choosing timbers, check nails of bullets stucking in the timber, if so get rid of it.
- cut the end of the timber as it is usually dirty and rubbish.
- do mind your fingers where they go and always concentrate on your finger when machining, do not look around ever.
- before machining, turn on the extracting switch.
- if someone is machining, the others have to look after his or her back
- make your clothes of accesories neat
- do not put your hand at the end of the timber
- do not put timbers in a wrong(opposite) way -- critical
- when using buzzer or thicknesser, make the timber as thick as possible(mind the margin)
here are some other terms
- right angle grain
- tangential crack
- cupping
- flat(something special symbol marking on the surface of timbers)
- etc
I think one thing that should be prepared 1st is language. I suppose It was about 30% that I clearly understood my tutor's speaking. Not only was he talking about the theory or instruction but also he was joking many times. Then everybody laughed except me, which is a sad story....so I think the more practicing or preparing language, the more information you obviously get.
I should have brought a camera with me...because of many machines that cannot be explained in several words. Anyhow, there are quite a lot of machines like band saw, drop saw, circular saw, buzzer(surface planer), spider saw, thicknesser, router, spindle sander, a couple of grinders, etc in the building.
The thing that annoys me about the class is the terms some of which I cannot remember at the moment but probably have heard in Korean before. RS(rough sawn), D1S(Dressed 1 side), D2S, D3S, D4S. In the morning, prior to choose the best timber we caculated how many planks are going to be needed, which is called making cutting list. Items are arranged in rows and length, weight, thickness are arranged in colomns respectively.
He told us hand tools with demonstrating and explaining, such as combination square, sliding bevel(bevel square) for copying and pasting a certain angle, back saw, folding rules, chisels, spokeshare, electric saber saw, rasps, files, oilstone, clamps, c-clamps.
And he gave some tips.
- when using spider saw, make sure do not let the gap between timber and the shelf of it by pushing the timber down.
- when choosing timbers, check nails of bullets stucking in the timber, if so get rid of it.
- cut the end of the timber as it is usually dirty and rubbish.
- do mind your fingers where they go and always concentrate on your finger when machining, do not look around ever.
- before machining, turn on the extracting switch.
- if someone is machining, the others have to look after his or her back
- make your clothes of accesories neat
- do not put your hand at the end of the timber
- do not put timbers in a wrong(opposite) way -- critical
- when using buzzer or thicknesser, make the timber as thick as possible(mind the margin)
here are some other terms
- right angle grain
- tangential crack
- cupping
- flat(something special symbol marking on the surface of timbers)
- etc
I think one thing that should be prepared 1st is language. I suppose It was about 30% that I clearly understood my tutor's speaking. Not only was he talking about the theory or instruction but also he was joking many times. Then everybody laughed except me, which is a sad story....so I think the more practicing or preparing language, the more information you obviously get.
피드 구독하기:
글 (Atom)