23112011(Interior)

Terms

Inwale(doubler)

Dove tale saw

Spall

Roll lock chocks

Fair lead

Centre girder

We made risers for thwarts. First, we had to decide where they put on. They are on AutoCAD drawing but if the boat owner wants in another way, we have to follow that. One forward thwart of Moira’s boat needs space for a mop bucket between the thwart and the bulkhead. It was roughly 250mm that we reckon. To make risers fit in situ was a bit tricky because of the shape and the angle inside the boat. It would have been good to make each set of them as similar as possible. Now I am thinking about the way that we made them in proper angle, we could have used bevel square with straight edge or something like that (what is the name of the tool that indicates the right angle and horizontal with green water in it?). I used the same method that we tried to fit the skegs onto the bottom, I don’t know if that is right or not, which is quite fit though. Lance and Elvis were lofting thwarts and waiting for pattens. I kind of couldn’t understand why they need and how they work, but at the end of the day they are needed because it is more accurate that using pattens rather than just measuring from AutoCAD which is hard actually. Making pattens are not pretty hard but we had to make sure drew a line on the pattens of the thwarts going in, but again we had to measure the distance on the centre line, not on the chine line. Anyway, we sat them in glueing with hot glue gun for temporary. Because of making the patten based on the chine line we had to think about how much we have to bevel the thwarts. Chris showed us how to do that with bevel square. One thing that I thought about is the sequence of making the pattens and fitting the bulkhead in the situ. We used a spall for make the width of boat original as it was on the temporary frame. It doesn’t really matter but I thought it would be more efficient that glueing the bulkhead before making them. Thwarts have 3 solids and 2 gaps between them. Outer solids follow the chine line shape and the width of the middle ones are even for the forward thwart, the middle one and the aft one. It depends on how to dress the wood or which people do the machine, that how much margin the wood need to be had but for me it is 5mm. So if I am aiming 50mm thickness of planking, I have to make them 55mm before sending. Always make them bigger enough to dress. Jib’s task is bulkhead and I picked up how to make it but it is not all. The bulkhead needs to be beveled off. I finished making my tools (tool box, oil stone box and long board) today. For making sure that the thwarts don’t move after glueing up, we used nail method the same we did when we were making our tool box and nailed on both sides of each solid. Epoxy gets hard when it is not spread, which means that it doesn’t meet the air. Weird… The grain for the foredeck has to be longitudinal direction of the boat, which can be easily bended round transversely. I don’t know how to make the foredeck. I missed the whole thing since I did inwale of the transom. I made it with dove tale saw to make perfect joints, saw, chisel and sand paper with a right angled wood to make the mitre(?) joint. First thing to do is make a rebate on the frame attached already on the transom. Then measured and drew lines for fitting the joints. Make rebate on the inwale. Set in situ and cut off the rest of it. I missed how to fit the doubler for the bulkhead in situ, which was really tricky (I totally couldn’t understand.). We also made quarter knees for one boat. Actually, we were making for both but it cracked, which was kind of hard that control the bending timing between cool down and breaking.

Now we've got only next week left.

Mast

Kevlar

Carbon fibre

A material that looks like honey comb