There was a reason why the line of the first plank didn’t follow the edge of each frame. This plan was from U.S. and their drawing is normally for outside measurement and this one is so. For changing into New Zealand style it was simply deducted 6mm of its thickness but that didn’t work. Anyway, it isn’t really a big deal at the moment, because we’ve got much bigger surface for faying. A team glued afterwards skegs but we didn’t. We tried to set the topsides in situ but it was 4 P.M. when we were ready for doing it, so we delayed doing that to next week.
Leave 1 mm gap considering the thickness of epoxy, otherwise it would be like the bottom we did
(one side high, another side low)
Use white masking tape to make a reference of height of each frame which is already driving a fair line.
Use batten to make a fair line before beveling and draw a line on the other plank (topside)
Cramp a piece of wood with a frame for laying down planks
Adjust jigsaw angle or plane angle for working different angle of sawing or planing (transom, box and land and whole lot of use)
Most lines on the boat have to be fair. If it is not the drawing is wrong.
Couple of ways how to grab and stroke planes
Get rid of dust with using a flat thin wood striking on planks
The width between two skegs is good to be as wide as possible
How to remove the gap between the skegs and the bottom (usd wedges under the bottom between frames)
Cramp at the end of a skeg and nail wedges holding up in the middle of the skeg not to move much
Brass nail OK
Lump
Flush
Chris told and showed us box and land joint which is really detail and tricky one. I was sort of upset because I beveled the forward side of the first plank, which I shouldn’t have done that because it’s about ‘box and land joint’. Anyway, it didn’t matter.
Box and land joint
(land plane or rebate plane and chisel, faying surface line for reference)
If it can be accurate, work on the bench and fit in them. There was land plane having a bit of hollow blade and also now there is, but nowadays boat builders don’t use them much than before because of the invention of epoxy and a couple of reasons…(I didn’t understand at that moment Lance and Chris talking). Additionally, I made a small plank for my long board that I used off cuts of 12 mm plywood, cut it diagonally, glue them and nailed on them on the work bench.
Leave 1 mm gap considering the thickness of epoxy, otherwise it would be like the bottom we did
(one side high, another side low)
How to remove the gap between to planks (bottom and the first plank)
(long enough two woods, a cramp – put one inside attaching the bottom and the other one outside lying on the first plank – cramp smoothly, not until ding the bottomUse white masking tape to make a reference of height of each frame which is already driving a fair line.
Use batten to make a fair line before beveling and draw a line on the other plank (topside)
Cramp a piece of wood with a frame for laying down planks
Adjust jigsaw angle or plane angle for working different angle of sawing or planing (transom, box and land and whole lot of use)
Most lines on the boat have to be fair. If it is not the drawing is wrong.
Couple of ways how to grab and stroke planes
Get rid of dust with using a flat thin wood striking on planks
The width between two skegs is good to be as wide as possible
How to remove the gap between the skegs and the bottom (usd wedges under the bottom between frames)
Cramp at the end of a skeg and nail wedges holding up in the middle of the skeg not to move much
Brass nail OK
Lump
Flush
Chris told and showed us box and land joint which is really detail and tricky one. I was sort of upset because I beveled the forward side of the first plank, which I shouldn’t have done that because it’s about ‘box and land joint’. Anyway, it didn’t matter.
Box and land joint
(land plane or rebate plane and chisel, faying surface line for reference)
If it can be accurate, work on the bench and fit in them. There was land plane having a bit of hollow blade and also now there is, but nowadays boat builders don’t use them much than before because of the invention of epoxy and a couple of reasons…(I didn’t understand at that moment Lance and Chris talking). Additionally, I made a small plank for my long board that I used off cuts of 12 mm plywood, cut it diagonally, glue them and nailed on them on the work bench.
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