setting up the barrier(27022012)

dry fitting

 off cuts

 24 hours

 no more nails

2nd semester has begun, concepts

Chris told us about the concept of the boat we are building this semester, which is same as the one that students last semester built up. We have to seperate sapwood and heartwod, because the sap is tend to be rotten, which is easier than the heart does. Last semester, the students used sap for strips of hull, it rotted and they cut off them using router and it took three weeks to catch up the schedule. We are seen a sample having different colors on one edge and it is softer than the sap side.

lofting

nosecone
collision bulkhead
bulkhead
transom
tophat

We add a girder from transom to the right forward to centreboard to prevent the deflection of the cockpit. Floors are going to be made to improve the stiffness of the forward side instead of using another girder on it. We also make flange in order to extend the faying surface between the girder and the under surface of cockpit. There are three boards made of fiberglass one of which is outboard in the centre and the other two are for rudder to make sure the rudders are always under the water no matter what the boat is rolling each side(heel)

bowsprit
prow
spinaker

She hasn't got stem but nosecone made of foam standing vertically laminated. A fuller will be going into prow and will be fixed on the top of the prowtube made of carbon. Seawater always going to be in the space so we have to connect it to the centre case of the bilge pump on the keel to drain it.

work out

planking(western red cedar)
glass cloth
resin & hardner
peel ply

Is the peel ply sort of fibreglass?
What is EDB?

shrouds
rake
forestay
chainplate
rot

Topside is made of foam and fibreglass but especially the part where the chainplate is goint to be is going to be strengthened using epoxy. The thickness of the planking is 8mm. Strips except right above(under) the topside has far less tension than the other ones.

Another detail is the part where the fibreglass is goint to be overlap has to be sanded by the thickness of the peelply to prevent making lumps. The angles on each side of a spread to the shroud are same.

We built the barrier(no jig, strongback?)

draw a centre line
running measurement with common interval
draw a big rectangle having two lines embrace A.P and F.P on each(use trammel)
check the diagonal dimension
if same draw two parallel lines on each side of the centreline with same distance
running measurement
draw transverse lines
done

We used 'no more nails' glue to nail the barrier on the floor because we couldn't used nails on the concrete floor. 24 hours later, it won't go anywhere.