2012년 2월 29일 수요일

Keel-laying(29022012)

I should have brought my camera with me...We installed cleats on the hull bearer while the other guys were standing the frames for the deck up but especially frame 11 has bulkhead so we take it off and lofted. What we had to make sure is mould style and related planking thickness. Hull has female mould and deck has male mould but what we missed is that the hull frame has sheer line on itself, which we thought that it was topside. We are going to modify the lofting on next monday.

planking thickness
hull(western red cedar) 8mm
deck(high density foam) 15mm
transom 8mm
cockpit sole 15mm/side 8mm

frame 7 has two frame one of which for cockpit and another one for cabin room hatch. They hav 7 or 8mm gap between them in order to get enough space to lay down the material for cockpit which is foam and we have to make sure to have offset from the station line. We won't have cross spall but we've got temporary braces at the up corner of the frame on each side. Bevel is needed with the change of shape otherwise it will have ding on the braces and unfair line, which is not good. Lance and I had spare time so we lofted the girder which is suppose to be unnecessary at the moment. Jumping into AutoCAD and sort out the information we needed, canoe body, any waterline and starting/ending point of cockpit. Girder has flange on it which is going to be made with 2 layers of fiberglass.
We laid the first planking down today. It has a name 'Keel-laying' in shipbuilding industry and means to be quite a big event which means that the construction really started. Laying 2 strips having same figure on bothside of the centreline, we used epoxy(west 403) on them. Our goal next week is finishing the planking of hull, starting from 2 strips on the chine. Foam haven't arrived yet so we might work on the deck 2 weeks later.

how to use paper tape instead of using clamps
1 tiller 2 rudder
clearance hole/pilot hole

2012년 2월 27일 월요일

28022012(humpty dumpty)

 foil

CNC machine

and its monitor

 frames

estimating planking

little blocks(spall?)

and them aligned

 theodolite

 setting up frame 3 or 4

 checking vertical

 storypole

our job so far

Chris and I checked the glue was still tacky in the morning so it's true that it takes 24hours to go off. We went to workshop and saw CNC machine operating. We've got 16 frames including A.P and F.P. If we didn't have CNC this time, it would takes roughly 1 day for lofting with table offset and batten. The machine has such simple orders and operating system so it needs only a 3.5inch floppy disk. I rememeber CAD/CAM class which I had in Korea, the exam of simple orders as well. We use MDF for frames and because of the suction system under the material, CNC doesn't make a hole on it. We need to finish with using router.

Tapu, Lance and I drew the grid for hull as same as the one for deck we did yesterday and then we tried to estimate how many planking we need for long ones about 5.5m, which was quite difficult. Anyway, we decided to order a big one and Chris said he will order 2 more for just in case.

Andrew told me that peelply is temporary and helps epoxy can spread evenly on the fiberglass otherwise it has lumps on it.

We have to make sure which side the spalls set on. In our case, it doesn't matter for deck frame but they have to be swapped for hull frame. It depends on the bevel side and because of the change of the shape of hull or deck it has to be changed.

gasset?
theodolite
bearer

After that, we set up frame 3 at first but prior to doing that we have to check the height of the floor using theodolite. Each frame has its own measurement which is marked on it and the height from floor to the mark has to be same. Floor at A.P side is about 6mm higher than that of F.P so we used wedges to level the frames

humpty dumpty

setting up the barrier(27022012)

dry fitting

 off cuts
 24 hours
 no more nails
2nd semester has begun, concepts


Chris told us about the concept of the boat we are building this semester, which is same as the one that students last semester built up. We have to seperate sapwood and heartwod, because the sap is tend to be rotten, which is easier than the heart does. Last semester, the students used sap for strips of hull, it rotted and they cut off them using router and it took three weeks to catch up the schedule. We are seen a sample having different colors on one edge and it is softer than the sap side.

lofting

nosecone
collision bulkhead
bulkhead
transom
tophat

We add a girder from transom to the right forward to centreboard to prevent the deflection of the cockpit. Floors are going to be made to improve the stiffness of the forward side instead of using another girder on it. We also make flange in order to extend the faying surface between the girder and the under surface of cockpit. There are three boards made of fiberglass one of which is outboard in the centre and the other two are for rudder to make sure the rudders are always under the water no matter what the boat is rolling each side(heel)

bowsprit
prow
spinaker

She hasn't got stem but nosecone made of foam standing vertically laminated. A fuller will be going into prow and will be fixed on the top of the prowtube made of carbon. Seawater always going to be in the space so we have to connect it to the centre case of the bilge pump on the keel to drain it.

work out

planking(western red cedar)
glass cloth
resin & hardner
peel ply

Is the peel ply sort of fibreglass?
What is EDB?

shrouds
rake
forestay
chainplate
rot

Topside is made of foam and fibreglass but especially the part where the chainplate is goint to be is going to be strengthened using epoxy. The thickness of the planking is 8mm. Strips except right above(under) the topside has far less tension than the other ones.

Another detail is the part where the fibreglass is goint to be overlap has to be sanded by the thickness of the peelply to prevent making lumps. The angles on each side of a spread to the shroud are same.

We built the barrier(no jig, strongback?)

draw a centre line
running measurement with common interval
draw a big rectangle having two lines embrace A.P and F.P on each(use trammel)
check the diagonal dimension
if same draw two parallel lines on each side of the centreline with same distance
running measurement
draw transverse lines
done

We used 'no more nails' glue to nail the barrier on the floor because we couldn't used nails on the concrete floor. 24 hours later, it won't go anywhere.