30082011(lofting-station5)

We have got further today. Vaughn made us more battens for suitable size and small ones for drawing stem face. There is more information on stem face because the curve changes stiffly, so it is better to put more station lines in that section. For this reason, usual battens are likely to brake. This is why Vaughn made us them more. We can even plain the middle of the batten in order to make it flexible to do make more variable curve. Chris told us how to look after battens and about the safety(fire hose reel). He showed us a special tool called 'duck' which was a pure one. The shape of it was made for grabbing easily and if there is stiff circle, the shape make it fit into push a batten. Duck can let our hands free. Decoding table of offset was quite hard and I was struggling to start drawing body plan. Finally, Tapu and I could not solve that and Chris told us about the sequence of lofting, which is important. The goal today was drawing station 5, station 4 at the body plan, so we did and came home.

There are heaps of information in the table of offsets. I think I am almost getting at, but still missing some information. After I came back home, I looked into it and I found something about the offset half-breadths which is the last table on it. On the table, WL1, WL2, WL3 and WL4 make flat surfaces(of course) but Cur 0, Cur 1 and Cur 2 do not make surfaces, though they look like flat surfaces on the half-breadth view. Regarding offset heights, those Cur ones are not on the flat surface as well. Water lines and buttock lines do not meet each other. They are not relavant at all. In the same station, Cur ones sit on exactly same points, but Butt ones and WL ones are sitting on different locations.

LOA - length overall

how to calculate the displacement?

three icons discribing beams and heights

common interval - the gap between one station and the next station

buttock fifty(buttock 50)

waterline negative 60(waterline - 60 of d60)

freeboard - the height between waterline and sheer

draft - the depth between waterline and keel(negative)

heights - can be both of those two

New Zealander adopted the metric system in 1976.

stem face is connected with keel at a proper point somewhere between them.

Be aware of using the word stem and stem face.

batten flattening(bugger...forgot it..)

lifting off(what is it?)

planking thickness(where were these words from....)

scantling - it has many meanings regarding shipbuilding, shipping and timbers. I suppose I heard about this today was regarding timber, which means that the breadth of thickness of a timber.

Chris told us that scarphed batten is not good, because two timber's grains are obviously different and it will not give fair curves. The curve has to be on the points, but if it is quite sure that the curves run through them, let the batten naturally run. Sitka spruce is a good type of wood for using as a batten(slow growing), 100m high, slow growing.

Here is the sequence.

Sheer - profile

Canoe body - profile

Stem face - profile

Chine - profile

Deck line - H/B(half breadth)

Chine - H/B

Station 5 - body plan(station number can be different, so what it means is to draw the line of the widest beam of ship at port side)

Staion 4 - body plan(the widest of starboard)

B 200 - profile

LWL - H/B

the other stations - to draw them from being capable of seeing roughly(whole body) to seeing in detail

It can be slightly changed up to a lofter or a designer.(arrange the best sequence for oneself)

Wahoo! Bloody excellent! We have taken a photo today by Tapu's camera~but my knees are getting worserer(or on the way to be betterer?)

I still can not understand the whole things, I am really trying to get into it, though.

29082011(Lofting)

We started lofting this morning. I read about it on the Gougeon brothers on boat construction last weekend, but it was really hard to understand, so I was looking forward to the class today. We talked about the Autocad drawing dinghy09 for how long we need the cardboard individually. I made a pair with Tapu.

running measurement - when measuring and ticking quite a long length we can use this method with using a tape measure

trammel - similar to compass

sheer line - on the profile

deck line - on the half breadth

ghost line - for makeing sure the thickness is exist on the base line of the bottom(is it different from keel line?)

loft floor

chine - like a joint or connecting line to make the boat stronger and easy to handle

canoe body - the base line of the boat

square batten

profile - represents the shape of buttocks

half breadth - waterlines

body plan - stations

What we firstly did is we drew a centre line on the far bottom of our cardboard. This line can be thought as a base line or starting point(line). Our cardboard color was pink which is not bad but slightly narrower than the others. Next, we drew F.P(Forward Perpendicular line) and A.P(After Perpendicular line) at the right angle of the centre line we drew. We need to drew these lines as accurate as possible, otherwise it will bring annoying and concerning as time goes by. What impressed me about making those lines perpendicularly was that we do not need a rule or a tape measure. Richard showed us how to draw reasonably accurate lines of those. Then, we used a steel rule and a straightedge, we drew the rest of the grid. We can drew the profile grid from the WL4 which is the maximum or highest water line(is that right?) and can drew the half breadth grid from the CL which is the center line of the longitudinal cutting surface. Basically, each lines of plan has horizontal and vertical straight lines and one bunch of curved lines as we can see on the table of offsets. Each table has two sets of points and those sets make curved lines. The table of offsets we saw today was a bit different from the book. We tick the points to draw curved lines from table of offsets. My knees~but the loft floor looked lovely for me. Richard said that sheer line, keel line, chine, deck line and additionally ghost line are the main lines when lofting. We do not have to worry about the body plan. It will be coming up automatically from those two plans(profile and half breadth). There were not enough proper length of battens, so Tapu and I ticked all the points and looked at the other mates doing. If there are not much shape on lines, it will be better off laying a batten down on wider surface. The more tension it has, the nicer shape of line can be made.

On the way home, two questions poped up my head.

What if there are no sources like table of offsets or previous ship data and even a certain design program, how can we create something from nothing? I think the first thing to do lofting is making table of offsets, but how? The second one is that what kind of wood will be proper to use as a batten?

I found the table of offset file in Unitec student driver on the website(Lance showed me).

25082011(on Thursday)

There are some new terms as usual.

nail puncher - a hand tool that helps to hit the nail's head

pot life - a period of being able to be used when two or more resins are mixed

PVA(polyvinyl alcohol) - it does not help the gap fill

inference - a mental process from reasons to results

rose head copper nail - large faying surface(glueing area)

cutting list

spokeshave - we can use this when making the bottom of the oilstone box hollow

arkansaw

some timber has a crack at the end of them or somewhere, which means that they did not grow perpendicularly. In rain forest, some trees want to avoid tree shadow on them so they grow askew or curved, so those ones have tension themselves that appears as a crack when they are made into timbers and dehydrated.

pith

source - http://homerepaircalifornia.com/uploads/wood/cross_section_oak.jpg

knag - a big one can be dangerous sometimes, bomb

safer - quicker - better

sloppy

nick & scratches book

OSH - occupational safety & health

stem details(stem profile)

There were some problems with machines. Table saw was not at a right angle because saw dust in the machine block the saw angle adjustment gear. Too much oil on the oilstones were problem as well. We can use overflown oil on the oil stone boxes. Chris is getting further when we use machine, he still gives us heaps of comments though. Every guy seems to be getting used to use chisel and also the other hand tools or machines. Mahogany is beautiful but is quite hard to handle it. I realised that the grain direction does not run constantly, so I had to change my position when I was chiselling and plaining. There was a small accident and we heard about physical information such as blood pressure and the mechanism of human healing system. I do not remember that a cutting hand tool which can cut nails.

After I come back home, I have done internet things like Autocad WS, screenr, etc. Those are connected each other in a complicated way, I am still confusing and not good at using them. Screenr was a good software, but it takes quite a long time to upload videos. Openproj is good as well, but I do not know how I can share the file. Picasa and Youtube are powerfull tools. I started using blogpost.

This picture is in my picasa web album. There are so many resources, softwares and programs on the cloud, it is hard not to be drown. We have to swim well~

23082011(oil stone box)

I finished making the tool box yesterday. We used nails and glue to put the whole parts together. Shorter nails from cutting them half of longer nails by nail puncher were used on where the rebate was and the longer ones were for both of the sides. It was a bit tricky that Chris showed us how to cut nails diagonally. Nailing needs proper angle not to be pulled out easily, not to be come out the timber as well. To assemble timbers, it has to have procedures which we can choose the most efficient one, but personally I think it is not hugily affected in this case, whereas it surely is when we make more complicated things. Having left my notebook in my locker, I do not remember what else I have learned...bugger..
What we did last wednesday is chiselling the hole on the sides.
We started making oil stone box today. We talked about assembly especially gluing and nailing, which we did yesterday and planed the procedure of making the oil stone box. We were not allowed to use sanding machine or every things related to sanding. First, we choose our timber by scanning with our eyes. It was mahogany. I did not know that it has really beautiful grain before we dressed it as usual method. I draw some lines on it after dressed it up in order to chip by using drill press. By the way, one other thing that I realised this morning is that the oil stone is reasonably brittle as it was broken when it fell down from about 150mm high. Make sure the centre of the drill bit firmly stamps the surface of the timber when using drill press. If it is not fixed on to the timber properly, it will slip out as I have done and remain ugly scratches on it. We will finish making the oil stone box tomorrow and are doing lofting next 2 weeks.
The thing that I realised about making the tool box is the fact that the faster I would do, the worserer the result would come out. What I need to have as a boat builder is I think 'patience' and 'accuracy'. They will help me to get a better consequence and even I can be faster than I do not have those ones. Whenever I use machine or other mates do, I feel a bit nervous. Under any circumstances do I have to mind my fingers. Always, we have to look after each other's back.

16082011(getting used?)

Chris point out bad things from the work that we did yestersay in this morning. Every boatbuilder or tutor has different experiences or views of education and the method of usind tools or machines. Two of our classmates started doing this course slightly lately like 1 week or 2 weeks behind us doing from the first day, so they have to catch up. The method of glueing the part of the sides between them and us was different because they did it yesterday when matthew taught us. Anyway, woods need air when glueing them, which means they have to breath otherwise the glue is goint to be sticky or wet until they have enough air.
- wedge
- ramp
- inclined plane
- thread
- spiral down
- mercury
- knob(not a button)
- delftship(free download for modeling yacht  -  cool~)
http://www.delftship.net/
- saw horse
- flat -> gauged -> squared -> D4S
- that's what I'm gonna go through.
- samson post

We finished chiselling and we did some computer things related to preparing our portfolio. I heard that google take over motorola today.

15082011(chiselling)

We made handles by using bench saw on the 2nd floor on the last Wednesday. That was the only practical job that we have done. In the morning class, we learned the mechanical system inside the thicknesser, because someone adjusted the height of the rollers inside it. They have to be the same height of the bottom surface.
A student who was contaminated by epoxy two weeks ago popped by in the class for doing something, and Chris told us about human mechanism showing pre-sign by our immune system when someone is contaminated of something and he told that skin is our biggest organ, which sounds like true(it is true and the second one is a liver weighing 1.5kg while the former one is 3kg).
- do not measure at the end of timbers or planks especially after using thicknesser, because sometimes they are stepped.
- flat band sander
- dust is explosive, definetely saw dust as well.
- do not feed in the planks twice into the thicknesser, unless it is adjusted twice.
- microswitch on the flat band sander to measuer the exact thickness of woods
- emergency stop button
- vacuum system with the rubber conveyor belt on the flat band sander helps thinner timbers make flat when we feed them in as well as it extracts the saw dust from them.
- chiselling

The biggest part of what I experienced today was the afternoon class. We learned how to use chisels. It has two surfaces one of which is flat and another one has a steep angle. The former helps the chisel go straightly down to the surface, the latter tends to push against the materials like woods we use.
- the slower I chisel, the better result I will get.

Our tutor was matthew in the afternoon. He is way younger than the other tutors.

10082011

scarphs - An overlapping joint used to couple two timbers end-to-end without increasing their dimensions. Types include simple butt (flat) scarphs and more complicated hooked and keyed scarphs.
[Source: "Glossary." Wisconsin's Great Lakes Shipwrecks (http://www.wisconsinshipwrecks.org/)]

pine
sequoia
New Zealand grows pine and export to US, whereas US import them and grows sequoia, which is pretty similar to us.
American cherry(Prunus serotina)
walnut(a bit darker than the others)
epoxy
outboard(one or more motors being affixed to the outside of the transom)
WEST systems(epoxy company)
deafness(wear ear muffs)
incidence
shockwave
vinyl
buttock 100(100mm from the buttock line)
waterline negative 100(100mm under the waterline)
heel & trim
sniff
resin
hardner
get rough sawn
marking gauge(a special tool for marking. usually for measure the centre line)
sail fuller
temptation
solid green(green light)
blinking green
set the fence
gantry

I forgot most of the things that I learned last friday even what we have done. I need to focus on reviewing everyday seriously.

09082011(instruction about table saw & grinder & oil stone by Christopher)

Lance brought a special plane that make drip groove(weather groove), which is given by his grandfather. He said his grandfather was also a boat builder. Christopher brifly explained to us about it. The surface of joint(glueing area; faying surface) increases by making rebate whereas butt joint tends to slip or split up. We did not do any practicing today. The class tomorrow is going to be with laptop.
Terms
- skew
- shaving
- orbital sander(sanding in a direction of '8')
- grind & hone(first grind by grinder to make back surface of blades flat then hone by oil stone)
- oil stone
- water stone
- rip & dock
- arkansaw
- dove tale chissels(cross section looks like trapezoid)
- burr(looks like beard made after using spindle moulder in right angle grain)
- scriber(avoid making top chips, which is attached on a spindle moulder blade)
- winding & warping
- stem(bow)
- deadwood(keel of wooden boat)
- grain direction icon( <-> )
- cross nulled(usually on a handle which can be control by thumb and fingers)
- getting certain degree by drawing R575 circle(after drawing that circle, draw another line from the arc of the bottom line to the arc above in a length of 10mm, which can make 10 degree. By then, same method can be done, 1mm by 1 degree)
- Pythagoras theorem(a squared plus b squared equal c squared)
- right angle triangle(a triangle having one right angle)
- carving
- tenon & mortice
- forcener
- drill press
- bath(for make oil stone suck the oil)
- fine & coarse
- oil stone soak oil that is not kind of lube oil(do not put it into wooden clamps, otherwise it will contaminate them)
- soak it up
- standard operating proceduer(SOP)
   1. explain how to start up and shut down
   2. demonstrate how to use
   3. practice under control
   4. capable of doing with limited inspection
   5. without supervision
- woodchopper
- polish
- hollow(usually the center of oilstone tend to be hollow because that part is more used then the ends)
- grit(I thought this was used for shop primer)-to make
- dummy run(practicing)
- bridge guard(to protect fingers as well as blades)
- anti-kickback(like a teeth that does not allow planks to be back)
- solid
- tungsten(brittle, ususally used for cutting edge as sawteeth)
- expansion(usually a plate or stick made by iron of steel make intentional space to avoid expanding when it gets heating)
- to stop cracking(if something like glass or a plate made of iron keep cracking, it can be stopped by making a hole at the end of cracks)
- gullet(a certain hollow between sawteeth)
- feed in & tale out(could you tale it out, please?)

08082011

Our plan today was to get exact size of the ends by using band saw because there were quite enough margins on our planks of the ends. Prior to machining, we drew centre line and lines for each side, 140mm from the centre line. We drew another two lines for bottome of the end and a parallel line 10mm above the bottom line for makin rebate. On top of the end, we drew R20 line on both sides(right side and left side). To make both ends identically, we nailed two spots where the hole and the rebates are going to be made, which is okay to be made a nail hole. Using band saw downstairs, we found the surface of planks burning due to the blunt blade. We also learned how to sharpen the blade of the hand plane(bench plane) and how to use it properly. First use grinder with water, second use oilstone with thin(diluted) oil, make sure adjust the gap of tooth of the blade in about 2mm and so on.
There are differences between the big band saw down staris which has wider and thicker blade than another small one upstairs. Wider blade can keep the way the plank goes whereas narrow one make the surface curve easier.
Tips
- make sure leave lines that have been already drawn for being able to check when doing another job like sanding, planing, etc
- mind the grain direction before using certain machines such as spindle molder, buzzer, etc.
We cut the top to make radius(R20) by sanding disk which is quite dangerous until it stops(it takes long time to stop perfectly), and we take the nails away in order to put the planks into the sanding machine which is really big and can be adjust the thickness electronically as well as mechanically.
Terms
- faying surface(glueing area)
- AS/NZS 2271(can be used in boat buliding but not recommendable) grade 'A' face, 'C' back
- AS/NZS 2272(for boatbuilding) AA
- BS 1088(for boatbuilding) AA
- epoxy
- vinylester resin
- polyester resin

a nice site below to find the information about plywoods
http://www.gunnersens.com.au/products/building-products/plywood.html

Finally, we choose a plywood, which was AS/NZS 2271, for bottoms and cut it longitudinally by table saw and transversely by spider saw. That was all for today.

03082011

Yesterday we prepared three pieces of plank by using spider saw. One for two sides which will be ripped deeply, two for two ends which will be cut diagonally into two and be glued two of them for each end. We need two more pieces of plank for the handle and the bottom of the tool box. It is high time I bought hand tools~ A seller came to class and show us the tools we need that be put into our future tool box. Today the class was started instructing how to use bandsaw because we needed to cut the ends diagonally into two. Thg thing is our eyes always have to looking at our fingers and do not look around ever never. That's all. Our tutor Christopher says comparative word like 'quickerer', 'biggerer', which is good to understand. We used thicknesser to make the planks flat and used buzzer to make the side surface of planks flat.
Planks are usually slightly twisted or bended, so they should be flattened by using machines. The chance of planks bending opposite the grain is likely. The shape, length, bending direction of blade of thicknesser represents how the scob is curl, long.
Here are some tips.
- if epoxy contaminates skin, it can be cleaned by salten water or vinegar
- make sure you get rid of glue before sanding so that the sanding machine can be protected

After we cut the planks for ends into two, we used glue to attach each of two. We used 4 nails for one end to make them firmly attached. First put one piece of the plank on a table, nail down on the table beside the plank touched(use two nails). Secondly, glue the side of the other plank, attach each side and rub them. Lastly, nail down shallowly(use another two of them) with slightly leaning on the table touched on the other side of the other plank and erect the inclined nails and drive the nails deeply again.

02082011

As we were handed a drawing yesterday about a tool box yesterday, we kept talking about the tool box. Christopher Lovegrove, who has shaggy beard with low tone voice, was a tutor today until the next day. He told us about features of timbers such as brittle(more likely to crash than to bend), end grain, sanded, mill, planks, westerned red cedar, slow growing, specific gravity weight(S.G.), the metric system, flat sawn, quarter sawn. Also three different type of drawing was told, which is profile(buttock line), bodyplan(station line), half breadth(water line), also diagonal line, table of offsets as well.
I should have brought a camera with me...because of many machines that cannot be explained in several words. Anyhow, there are quite a lot of machines like band saw, drop saw, circular saw, buzzer(surface planer), spider saw, thicknesser, router, spindle sander, a couple of grinders, etc in the building.
The thing that annoys me about the class is the terms some of which I cannot remember at the moment but probably have heard in Korean before. RS(rough sawn), D1S(Dressed 1 side), D2S, D3S, D4S. In the morning, prior to choose the best timber we caculated how many planks are going to be needed, which is called making cutting list. Items are arranged in rows and length, weight, thickness are arranged in colomns respectively.
He told us hand tools with demonstrating and explaining, such as combination square, sliding bevel(bevel square) for copying and pasting a certain angle, back saw, folding rules, chisels, spokeshare, electric saber saw, rasps, files, oilstone, clamps, c-clamps.
And he gave some tips.
- when using spider saw, make sure do not let the gap between timber and the shelf of it by pushing the timber down.
- when choosing timbers, check nails of bullets stucking in the timber, if so get rid of it.
- cut the end of the timber as it is usually dirty and rubbish.
- do mind your fingers where they go and always concentrate on your finger when machining, do not look around ever.
- before machining, turn on the extracting switch.
- if someone is machining, the others have to look after his or her back
- make your clothes of accesories neat
- do not put your hand at the end of the timber
- do not put timbers in a wrong(opposite) way -- critical
- when using buzzer or thicknesser, make the timber as thick as possible(mind the margin)

here are some other terms
- right angle grain
- tangential crack
- cupping
- flat(something special symbol marking on the surface of timbers)
- etc

I think one thing that should be prepared 1st is language. I suppose It was about 30% that I clearly understood my tutor's speaking. Not only was he talking about the theory or instruction but also he was joking many times. Then everybody laughed except me, which is a sad story....so I think the more practicing or preparing language, the more information you obviously get.